Carl Chapman

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Hualapai

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The Hualapai Indian Land stretches 108 miles along the Colorado River and includes the western end of the Grand Canyon. The Indian Land is in Coconino and Mohave Counties. It shares its northern and eastern boundaries with the Grand Canyon National Park and also adjoins the Hualapai Indian Lands on the east. The elevation ranges from 1,200 feet to 7,400 feet. Currently, the tribe has 1,400 members.

The name Hualapai comes from the word “hwal’bay, which means “people of the tall pines. The Hualapai originally came from the Yuma Indians in Western Arizona, but they eventually moved to this region.
When settlers started to encroach on the Hualapai, battles erupted. After losing the war, the Indians were placed in a camp near the town of Parker. Many Hualapai perished at the camp, however, some did manage to escape.
They made their way back to their homeland and later the land was set aside for the tribe to live. The Hualapai Indian Lands covers almost 1 million acres and was created by Executive Order in January 1883.
Today, Peach Springs is the Tribal Capital. The town owes its name to the peach trees growing at the springs nearby. The Hualapai Indian Land is working hard make a positive future. There has been economic, social and government progress in recent years. This is evident with the building of new homes, an improved water and sewer system, paved and curbed streets and a mission to be an anti-drug and alcohol community.
The western section of the Indian Lands remains closed to the public. This area is viewed as sacred to the Hualapai tribe.

Attractions:
The Hualapai Indian Lands offers the only access by car into the Grand Canyon. By driving to Peach Springs and following Diamond Creek Road, you will arrive at the gorge where Diamond Creek and the Colorado River meet. The Hualapai Tribal River Runners is the only Indian owned and operated the river-rafting company on the Colorado River. The company offers one and two day Indian guided tours.

Hualapai Arts and Crafts Center has a variety of traditional and modern arts available for purchase. The center is located in Peach Springs.

Hualapai Indian Days May

Chinle

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Chinle, near the geographic center of the Navajo Indian Reservation in northeastern Arizona, is at the entrance to Canyon de Chelly National Monument.  Chinle became a center for population growth and trade after 1868 when the United States signed a treaty with the Navajos. The first trading post was established in 1882, the first mission in 1904, and the first government school in 1910.

Canyon de Chelly, a geological and historical wonder, is Chinle’s greatest scenic attraction. The Canyon was a Navajo stronghold during Colonel Kit Carson’s Navajo Campaign and was designated a National Monument in 1931. Evidence of Indian habitation as early as 2000 B.C. is found in artifacts and prehistoric cliff dwellings. As the angle of the sun changes, the colors in the rock formations change from brilliant red-browns to orange, pink, and even purple.

Thirty miles south of Chinle lies Ganado, site of Arizona’s most famous Indian trading post, Hubbell’s. In operation for nearly a century, it has been designated a National Historic Site. At Hubbell’s and other trading posts on the reservation, the famed handcrafted Navajo silver jewelry and hand-woven woolen rugs may be purchased.

Trout, bass, and catfish fishing is excellent at nearby lakes. Other area attractions include Window Rock, headquarters of the Navajo Tribe; the Painted Desert; Petrified Forest National Monument; Monument Valley; and the Hopi Indian Reservation.

Fort Apache

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The Fort Apache Indian Land is in the White Mountains. It is 75 miles long, 45 miles wide and includes parts of Apache, Gila, and Navajo Counties. The Tonto National Forest, the Sitgreaves National Forest, and the Apache National Forest form the Indian Lands western, northern and eastern boundaries. The land ranges from an elevation of 2,700 feet at the Salt River Canyon to 11,000 feet at Mount Baldy. The Apaches live on close to 1.5 million acres. Currently, the White Mountain Apache Indian tribe has 11,000 members.

History:
The first fort built in this area was called Camp Ord. Later, the name was changed to Camp Thomas, in honor of the Civil War General George W. Thomas. Then, in 1870 the name was changed one last time to Fort Apache. The name was chosen after a visit from the Apache Indian chieftain, Cochise.

The Indian Land was established in 1897 and was named after the fort. When the White Mountain Apaches first began to live here, their number was only 2,000. Prior to the placement of the tribe on the Indian Land, the Apaches had been the most independent and determined Indian tribe in Arizona. The Apaches call themselves, “DiNeh” meaning “The People.”

The Fort was manned up until 1924 when the fort was turned into a school for Indian children. During the 1950’s, the White Mountain Apaches decided to make themselves self-sufficient and improve their standard of living. In order to do this, the tribe designed a plan to make their Indian Land the largest privately owned recreational area in the United States. This was accomplished by building a number of dams to create lakes and constructing access roads and campgrounds. Throughout the process, the tribe did not lose sight of maintaining nature’s natural beauty by treating the land with respect.

Today, the Fort Apache Indian Land is a recreation enthusiast and vacationer’s destination spot. Whiteriver is the center of the Indian Land and the seat of tribal government.

Indian Arts:
Fort Apache Indians are known for their burden baskets and beadwork.

Attractions:
The land has been turned into an outstanding recreational area. The tribe is proud of its Sunrise Ski Resort with its excellent varying ability levels of trails covering three mountains. There are six chair lifts and several lodges located nearby.

Hawley Lake is one of 25 lakes available for fishing. There are also 420 miles of streams that are stocked regularly. This makes them a fisherman’s paradise. With more than 7000 campsites, vacationer’s can always find a spot to spend the night.

The Salt River’s waters originate where the White and Black Rivers join on Fort Apache Indian Land. The Salt River offers water fun for kayakers and canoers or if white water rafting is more your speed tours are available. The river forms the Salt River Canyon, which is a spectacular sight. There are several lookout points along U.S. 60, north of Globe, which allow visitors a glimpse of this beautiful canyon.

Kinishba Ruins are a few miles southwest of Whiteriver. The ruins are of a large Indian apartment complex. It is believed that Kinishba or “The Brown House” was developed sometime around 700 A.D. and the community reached its peak around 1200 A.D. Today, the ruins are a national historic landmark.

Fort Apache National Historic Park is world famous. The Fort was the headquarters for Apache Scouts in the late 1800’s. The scouts were charged with the task of locating renegade Apaches and Navajos. The park also has a recreation of an Apache Village. There are several unique buildings at the fort. The gift shop is housed in General Cook’s log cabin. The fort is located just seven miles south of Whiteriver and walking tours are available.

The land is home to Hon-Dah Casino.

White Mountain Apache Tribal Fair and Rodeo September

Kaibab-Paiute

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Location:
The Kaibab-Paiute Indian Lands is found along Kanab Creek in Northern Arizona, near the Utah border in the Arizona Strip. Kanab Creek runs through the Indian Land on its way to Snake Gulch and the Colorado River. The land also sits on the Markagunt Plateau north of the Grand Canyon National Park and Kaibab National Forest, making it one of the most remote Indian Lands in the state. In order to reach this area, you must take U.S. Highway 89 from the east through Jacob Lake and Fredonia. The Indian Land is in both Coconino and Mohave Counties. The tribe’s land contains 120,827 acres. Currently, the tribe has 200 members.

History:
The Kaibab-Paiute Indians are members of the Southern Paiute Nation, which is located in the southern Great Basin and San Juan-Colorado River drainage. Their language is Uto-Aztecan and English. The tribe has five villages, Kaibab, Steam Boat, Juniper Estates, Six-Mile and Red Hills.
Today, most of the members live in Kaibab. All of the villages live in a combination of the modern and traditional settings. The traditional ways are shown in language, celebrations, community organization, and values.

Indian Arts:
The Kaibab-Paiute Indians are known for their coiled basket called the “Wedding Basket.”

Attractions:
Pipe Springs National Monument began as two pools of water, which flow from the Sevier Fault on the Moccasin Terrace. Then in 1870, a group of Mormons discovered the springs and decided to build a community. They established a fort and named it Windsor Castle. The Kaibab-Paiute Indians never attacked the settlement. The area was designated a national monument in 1923.

Kayenta

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Kayenta, in the Northeastern portion of Navajo County, is approximately 20 miles south of the Utah border on U.S. 163. It is 148 miles north-northeast of Flagstaff, Arizona, and 98 miles west of Shiprock, New Mexico.

Because of its remoteness, in the early days, the Kayenta region was seldom visited by non-Indians. Although in 1874, Mormon emigrants moved their wagons through on their route from Tuba City to Aneth on the San Juan River, the Navajos, and Paiutes of the area were only occasionally disturbed by itinerant traders and wandering prospectors.

In 1910 things changed with the opening of a trading post at Kayenta. In 1914, the March Pass School opened its doors. By 1916, another trading post had opened for business. Since that time, and especially since the paving of roads through the area, Kayenta, at an elevation of 5,660 feet, has had considerably more traffic and has been designated a “growth center” of the Reservation.

Today, its position as a gateway to the tourist attractions of Monument Valley as well as its midpoint location on state Highway 160 between Shiprock and Tuba City have helped establish Kayenta as a major community on the Navajo Reservation. Navajos refer to Kayenta as Tohdenasshai.

The Four Corners area, a junction of Arizona, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico – the only spot in the United States where four states meet – is less than 80 miles away. Within a 150-mile radius of the community are a variety of parks and recreational facilities. Arizona is the home of Grand Canyon National Park with the Vermillion Cliffs and Paria Canyon. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and Lake Powell are the results of the construction of Glen Canyon Dam on the Colorado River.
The prehistoric Indian dwellings of Canyon de Chelly National Monument and the monoliths and arches of Monument Valley, Rainbow Bridge National Monument, and the Navajo Scenic Area are nearby.

New Lands

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An idea that went bad. There is a long story about New Lands, and maybe I will tell it someday. For now, know it no longer exists. Or not much of it does.

 

New Lands is in Eastern Arizona. It is in Apache County. The expansive community is located 20 miles east of the Petrified Forest National Park and stretches from the town of Chambers to the New Mexican border.

Overview:
New Lands is a planned community created to blend the traditions of the past with the lifestyle of today. The community sits at elevations ranging from 5,500 feet to 6,900 feet. The warm desert climate has a summer high temperature of 100 degrees and a winter low temperature of 30 degrees. It is a growing area that is working toward a common goal.

Community Features:
There are a few outdoor activities that will make your trip to the area memorable. Window Rock is 35 miles to the northeast. It is a sandstone cliff created by wind, sand and water, which eroded an opening that reveals a broad sweep of country. It looks as if it had been made by the poke of a giant’s finger. However, Navajo legend has it that the Giant Snake made it. The Giant Snake crawled along the expanse of sandstone and eventually created a passageway to the other side. It is a huge, red sandstone formation that is 47 feet in diameter and 100 feet high. The formation suggests a window through a rock and it is listed as one the Seven Wonders of the World.

Climbing the rock is forbidden. It is a sacred place to the Navajo. Visitors can still get a good look at Window Rock from below by hiking around it. There are pieces still seen today near its base that is from a prehistoric Pueblo. New Lands is 20 miles east of the Petrified Forest National Park. Here you will discover some of the most amazing outdoor activities in the state. Once you arrive at the park, you will see what I mean. There are petrified logs in many shapes and sizes strewn across the desert floor. Please remember the collection or removal of petrified wood, natural or cultural objects is prohibited. There are two entrances to the park and both begin off of Interstate 40.

The north entrance takes you to the Painted Desert Visitor Center. Here you will see spectacular colors bouncing off the rock formations. The best time to make your visit is during sunset. You can then take the loop driving tour around to the south entrance. In the middle of the loop drive, there is the Painted Desert Inn National Historic Landmark Museum. This was once a Fred Harvey hotel. It was built in the 1930’s. Today, the park service uses it as a visitor center and it sometimes features Native Americans demonstrating their crafts. The southern end of the drive has the Rainbow Museum. Visitors will find artifacts from the Puerco Indian Ruins dating back to 1150 A.D. Kids will love the three life-sized dinosaurs on display.

History:

New Lands was created on 351,691 acres of tribal trust land and reaches from approximately Chambers, Arizona to the New Mexico state line, along Interstate 40. The towns of Sanders and Chambers are included in an additional 18,000 acres of private land, south of the Navajo Indian Land.

The land was selected for development to promote the strong religious and traditional values of the Navajo Indians. Yet, it also includes the transitional part of the Navajo society. This combination allows for all Navajos to live together. There are 17 range units that were constructed to provide the traditional lifestyle that many want to continue.

Near the town of Sanders is the Naht’a’Dziil chapter house. This chapter house in the center of local government for the New Land community and is the 110th Navajo chapter house. Naht’a’Dziil means, “planning through strength.” This phrase symbolizes New Lands.
New Lands is a planned community with ongoing growth. There are areas for homes, industry, business, farming, recreation, and education. Visitors will see a high school, hospitality center, rodeo arena, health clinic and an industrial building.

Today, the community’s goal is to encourage industrial and commercial expansion. This growth is anticipated, due to the community’s location along Interstate 40 and in addition to the Santa Fe Railroad running parallel to the highway.